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如何在家里为自己的头发上色而不破坏

通过设计师的专家技巧告别灰根。

一张女人染发的照片。 Credit: Getty Images / mheim3011

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让你的头发颜色的后根或者成长t feels like hitting a major reset button. It’s a task that, once complete, spikes your confidence. With hair appointments cancelled because of the新冠病毒至少六个星期,希望通过将浴室变成自己的个人沙龙来控制头发颜色是可以理解的。因为这是许多人的外国领土,所以我们与发型师兼位于波士顿沙龙的所有者Marina Melnikova进行了交谈Zenarose,,,,to help you get a beautiful color at home—without a disaster that only a pro can fix.

Step 1: Consult your hair stylist

A photo of a woman consulting her hair stylist.
学分:Getty Images / Dragana991

Your stylist knows your hair best.

No longer having access to your salon does not mean that your hair stylist has disappeared. In fact, the opposite: They’re sitting around at home just like you are, and most would be thrilled to hear from you. “Reach out to your stylist and see if they can maybe give you your [hair color] formula or a link to a product that they approve of you using,” Melnikova says. “It’s hard because everyone goes to different salons, [the salons] all use different hair color, and every client is on a different path. You just want to make sure that you’re not straying too far from the journey that your hair is on.”

In some cases, your stylist may be able to mix your custom formula together for you and mail it to you or arrange for you to pick it up, taking a chunk of the guesswork off your hands. (And, please, pay or tip your stylist for their time and effort, in addition to the cost of the color products.)

步骤2:选择正确的颜色

一个女人选择头发颜色的照片。
Credit: Getty Images / doble-d

在选择颜色方面,扎根更暗和灰烬。

如果您没有发型师的输入,则过程中最艰难的部分是决定覆盖成年灰色的发色产品,并(或)无缝地融合到已经染成的头发中。首先,第一件事:绕过药店盒装染料,并购买高端,知名的品牌。梅尔尼科娃说:“盒装染料的问题是它非常有效的发色。”“对于您的头发来说,这是一种有害的产品,无论如何,它将创造颜色积累从一个应用程序中,然后您的设计师将不得不在回来时纠正它。”相反,Melnikova建议从Sally Beauty或者DP色调

梅尔尼科娃(Melnikova)建议,任何从根源上长大30%的灰头发生长的人(根据与其他头发的颜色相比,您看到的灰色多少)只购买“永久性”染料,它一直留在头发上,直到您要么要么要么要化学去除或切掉头发。如果您的灰头发少于30%,并且希望您能浪费您,直到看到您的造型师,则半永久性(也称为光泽)可能是一个不错的选择。您要避免使用半永久性的根源上的根源,因为颜色要么无法完全覆盖头发,要么将其发展成不打算的颜色。

首先,第一件事:绕过药店盒装染料,并购买高端,知名的品牌。

半永久性染料(持续大约四到六周)不会完全掩盖您的根部(尤其是随着颜色褪色),但可以减少戏剧性根系的外观。对于那些不担心根源而又想恢复头发颜色或淡化的任何人来说,半永久性染料也是一个不错的选择。例如,一个黑发但想要金色或红色的色调或金发的人,但认为他们的头发看起来太黄了,可能会选择此选项。

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当您寻找覆盖根部的颜色时,比染色的头发更黑暗和“灰烬”(除非是红发,否则黄金或红发的意思)。您的根部应该是头发中最黑暗的部分,因此,瞄准更黑的头部应该使您免于与其余头发更轻的根部。当您在Sally Beauty这样的地方购物时,染料应包含“级别”数字,指的是黑暗,“ 1级”是黑色的,在4到6范围内,黑暗至中等棕色,金发碧眼的人从7级或7级开始8.如果您可以要求您的造型师或沙龙中的某人在数据库中查找您的水平,请继续使用。如果您必须猜测您的基础色卡,在购买产品时将其降低。如果有“温暖”或“灰”颜色的选项,请选择更酷,灰烬的一面,以防止不必要的发红或黄铜。

专家提示:“我会远离任何说'自然'或'有机的东西,”梅尔尼科娃说。“市场上没有100%的天然产品。它只是不存在,因此无论他们在那里使用的添加剂如何,我个人都不相信。”

步骤3:组装正确的工具

一张混合染发剂的人的照片。
学分:Getty Images / Srdjian Pav

正确的工具为您提供成功。

染料是节目的明星,但是您需要一些工具来伸出援手。您需要一个developer奶油或液体,您将其搅拌到染料中以“激活”头发颜色;用于进行混合的塑料或玻璃碗(某些金属可能会对产品的化学物质反应);僵硬的,类似油漆的刷子,将混合物涂在头发上;尾梳,具有尖头的末端,使头发分开变得更容易。至少有两个夹子在染发时将部分脱落。

对于开发人员而言,Melkinova建议使用第20卷用于永久性染发剂,而对于半永久性的卷10(体积是指开发人员中的过氧化氢量以及其提高颜色的能力)。离子的颜色光彩敏感的头皮奶油开发人员都有两卷,并主张用小麦蛋白质保护敏感的头皮。

哦,您需要在壁橱里寻找一件旧的T恤,您不介意染色或纽扣衬衫,可以在淋浴前卸下,而无需将其拉到头上。

步骤4:谨慎申请

一张女人染发的照片。
图片来源:Getty Images / Mehmet Hilmi Barcin

Only apply dye to regrowth, not already-dyed hair.

The actual coloring process largely depends on the instructions on your dye’s bottle, including the ratio of dye to developer and the time period that the solution should sit on your head.

As for applying the color to your roots, Melnikova recommends erring on the side of only coloring what you can see, based on the style you normally wear your hair. If you prefer to wear your hair down, part your hair where you normally would and pin either side down with clips to keep the hair in place while you apply the color. From there, dab the dye in the direction of hair growth onto either side of your part and the tail-end of your part (only covering root regrowth). Then remove the clips and part the hair a half-inch over to the right, repeat the application process, then go over another half-inch to the right. Repeat this on the left side of your original part, as well. This will ensure that the inch surrounding your part is dyed, sufficiently covering any gray hairs that may show when your hair is down.

零件完成后,将头发固定在后面,以便您可以看到前发际线的根。将溶液涂在发际线上,再次小心,只涵盖新的增长,而不是与现有的染料作业重叠。

Having the very front of your hairline and your part covered gives the appearance of a fresh dye job, but if you make any errors, your hair stylist will have far less work to fix them than if you did the whole head “wrong.” If you typically wear your hair up, you can skip doing your part and go straight to the front hairline by putting your hair in a ponytail. Then repeat this process all the way around the hairline along your neck, using a mirror or someone’s help to get tough-to-reach spots.

如果您真的想以与上面相同的方式继续分开和颜色涂抹,并将每个“零件”从额头到颈部一直沿每个“零件”,则可以通过与上面的方式进行颜色和颜色应用。(一个警告:使用较短的样式更容易做到这一点。)

如果您使用半永久性或“光泽”来修饰所有头发,那么您会遵循类似的过程,但要从根到尖端刷牙。最好将其分为部分,从正面开始,然后向后朝脖子工作。This way, you can pin your hair up on the top of your head with a clip and add more and more hair into the clip (or use additional clips) as you’re applying the product, to avoid getting dye on your shirt or skin.

Once you’ve applied your last dab of color, set a timer for the time advised in the hair color’s instructions.

Step 5: Shampoo and condition thoroughly

一个女人洗头的照片。
图片来源:Getty Images / Igor Vershinsky

在离开淋浴之前,请彻底清洗头发。

When the timer sounds, it’s time to rinse it out. “You always want to shampoo really, really well,” Melkinova says. “Tilt your head back so the color is not getting in your eyes. Be very careful about splashing, because you can get color all over your shower.” Suds up your head twice and rinse until the water off your head runs clear. Apply your normal conditioner or a thicker conditioning mask (your preference), rinse, and style as usual.

You’re done! Enjoy your fresh new locks!

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